C.1860. Gold and Coral Eagle Brooch by Ernesto Pierret

C.1860. Gold and Coral Eagle Brooch by Ernesto Pierret

C.1860. A finely crafted gold and coral eagle brooch by Ernesto Pierret. Ernesto Pierret (1824-1898) was a celebrated Parisian-born jeweler who, after training in Rome, established his influential workshop there in 1846. Specializing in the popular archaeological revival style, Pierret became renowned for his exquisite goldwork, including granulation and wirework, often incorporating genuine ancient artifacts like micromosaics and scarabs into his elaborate designs, and skillfully utilizing materials such as coral. His exceptional craftsmanship attracted a prestigious clientele, including the Queen of Italy, and solidified his reputation to the extent that his Roman studio at 20 Piazza di Spagna is now a national monument, Palazzo Pierret, named after him. (shown in the last photo)  Pierret's work is widely recognized for its exceptional quality and artistic mastery, standing alongside that of the esteemed Castellani workshop; while Castellani operated on a larger, more internationally exhibited scale, Pierret's exquisite creations, though likely produced in smaller quantities, are highly prized. His pieces are extensively sought after by discerning collectors and can be found in the leading institutions such as the British Museum, the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, and the Toledo Museum of Art.

In this exquisitely detailed brooch, the eagle's beak holds a large and plump coral bead, and the round frame features the raised letters 'R O M A'. The original c-clasp has an ingenious double-security mechanism, incorporating an additional spring panel. Pierret's jewelry typically bears a small gold plaque with a monogram or signature, and this piece features two 'PIERRET' signatures on the back. The Vatican workshop mark of two crossed keys and a mitre is also evident in two areas: on the c-clasp and on the brooch bar. This mark was used until 1870. Overall, the piece remains in great condition, with the clasp fully functional and the gold displaying its natural patina.